In his quest to meet Turkey’s elusive master of the ney, our contributor spent months searching the cafes and alleys of Istanbul, illuminating not only the reasons the ney all but disappeared from the country, but how (and why) it has come back.
A writer searches Istanbul’s cafés and alleys for the king of the ney, an enigmatic — and at times, endangered — flute that has long been a mainstay of Muslim musical traditions.
By ROLLO ROMIG
Just as tagine may refer to both a specific Moroccan cooking vessel and the type of food prepared in it, so the Turkish word güveç describes a pot and also a dish. The famous güveç pot of Turkey has dozens of different names in Balkan countries, but whatever they call it, they are talking about the…